Inspiring

Saw Gerry Lopez speak at Santa Monica High last night with my good friend Patch. He reminded me of the many "uncles" whom I've been so lucky to have had and continue to have in my life, just a wealth of wisdom and knowledge selflessly oozing out of their mere existence. It's as if they want to pass this stuff on, so we can live better and more fruitful lives. 

THANKS Gerry!

An excerpt from his book SURF IS WHERE YOU FIND IT-

"The inner place of harmonious bliss is layered over with ego, individual belief systems, and mundane concerns. We live in the past where nostalgia makes us sad, or in the future where our worries cause us anxiety. We fail to grasp that this moment we are in is all there ever was or ever will be. Life is, was, and ever will be, simply now."

(Gerry in scorpion pose photo from Best Life magazine)

Geeked #2

Yes the man rips and a super nice guy too, Top Man, end of story...

I'm geeked and a bit star struck I must say.

-fsacto

Geeked

Eyes fixed on the point...
Jailbird Japanese Wettie and NightSnake=lethal
No sleep till... Williamsburg!!
Tracey Hulling
Wessen and Hilby special.
Carl told us never to go back here again.
Always love watching T!
Matt effortless....
 Stoner CP 650mm...hope to show footie soon.
                                                       
                                            
                                         

It was good at 1st yesterday, SUPER GOOD...Shot some stills and some 16mm (which I hope to post soon). I swear there was one set that seemed to go on forever, wave after wave of "boo" goodness. It was just perfect. I spent the entire day there then hung out with some friends and had some cold brews at the pier watching the nice sets roll in. After nearly getting thrown out of the place thanks to a paranoid restaurant manager who was stressing Carl, we split and headed back to the sand where the sets continued to roll in, still super good. It was just perfect...even got to hang with that guy who played "Slade" on Baywatch for a bit.

-fsacto

Mother's Day

The mama of Casa de Sacramento, the kids and I love you...

SURFWISE

I went to the premier of SURFWISE last night at the Egyptian in Hollywood

and hooked up with my good friend Abraham Paskowitz of perhaps the most well known

family in the surfing world. The film was great, a definite must see for the great archival Paskowitz family surf footage of California, Mex, Hawaii and even Israel as well as a great look into the surfing lifestyle taken to the extreme.

Dr. Dorian Paskowitz definitely had a different way of raising a family-Nine kids in a

22 foot camper, home schooled, Veg diet, surf everyday...stuff of dreams, until the kids

grew up. Happy & sad at the same time, go see this flick directed by doco master Doug Pray out May 9th.