Finally got to surf a classic SoCal spot yesterday that I've been meaning to longboard in like forever, the one near those twin reactors... I had the time of my life on those mellow rollers that seemed to go on and on and on....Put into that mix hangin' with some friendly local heads, meeting the Moonlight Glassing family, watching M Caro shaping a fine looking stubbie, a couple of tasty Pedro's tacos, and talking story with a good friend in his brand new ride...it was a great day of California surfing stoke. Blessed
Kukai/Kuk=Hawaiian for SHIT...
Whenever we saw somebody who had a shitty squatty style we'd say "he's taking a Kukai, he's a Kuk!" and so it began-Dorian Paskowitz